STOP ASSUMING THAT LOCAL IS SUSTAINABLE

Xplained by Kal Kalim Coach, Designer, Fashion Photographer, Communication Designer, & Creative Director Australia, Bali, France, India

STOP ASSUMING LOCAL IS SUSTAINABLE

Rethinking sustainable fashion in India beyond proximity and sentimentality.”

The Dangerous Oversimplification in Conscious Fashion

In an era where sustainability in fashion has become both a buzzword and a battleground, we need to pause and examine the assumptions we’ve come to normalise, especially in a country like India, where culture, craft and community intersect with capitalism and climate crisis.

One of the most common (and least questioned) assumptions?
That local = sustainable.

Buy local and you’re doing good. Support artisans nearby and you’ve offset your impact. This sure sounds comforting in a world reeling from environmental collapse. But while sustainable fashion in India desperately needs community-rooted practices, proximity alone is not a substitute for responsibility.

The Anatomy of Sustainability: More than just geography

Sustainability in fashion isn’t a single act. It is a system. And it cannot be defined solely by where a product is made. Instead, it should be assessed across multiple, measurable dimensions:

The Expanded Pillars of Sustainable Fashion in India

PillarKey Questions
MaterialsAre fabrics organically grown, biodegradable, deadstock or upcycled? Are synthetic blends avoided where possible? 
ProductionIs energy minimized? Are low-water or closed-loop dyeing methods used? Are finishes and techniques non-toxic and low-impact?
Labour & EthicsAre artisans, tailors and staff fairly compensated? Are traditional crafts uplifted or exploited? Are working conditions humane?
Business ModelIs the brand producing in small, conscious batches? Is there pressure to constantly drop new collections? Is the growth push mindful or extractive?
CircularityCan garments be repaired, resold, recycled or composted? Is the brand designing for end-of-life?
TransparencyAre full supply chains disclosed — including dye houses, factories and packaging partners? Are certifications or audits shared publicly?
CommunicationIs the messaging educational or manipulative? Does it romanticise rurality or glamourise poverty? Is sustainability treated as a selling point or a system?
Scalability & PaceIs the brand scaling slowly and mindfully or chasing trend-driven virality? Is expansion designed to preserve ethics and quality?
Longevity of ProductAre clothes designed to last — in construction, timelessness and function? Does the brand encourage care and repair culture?
Originality in DesignAre designs truly original, or are they replicating Western silhouettes, subculture and slapping on Indian motifs? Is there depth in research and storytelling?
Influence & LegacyIs the brand shaping young designers to think sustainably? Is it mentoring, collaborating or gatekeeping? Is it shifting the industry dialogue in a meaningful way?

Even a hyperlocal label can fail on most of these fronts.

True sustainability isn’t just about how a garment is made. It is also about how it lives, how it is talked about and what it teaches the next generation of creators.

The Illusion of Sustainability Through Nationalism

There is a rising narrative in India where supporting local is entangled with patriotism and cultural pride. While this is emotionally resonant, it is often weaponised to silence critique of practices that are anything but sustainable.

For instance:

  • A local brand that dyes using synthetic pigments but employs a rural artisan might still market itself as “eco-conscious.”
  • Garments made in small towns might still use virgin polyester blends and PVC prints, undercutting any ecological gain.
  • “Handcrafted in India” has become a moral shield, making it harder for even discerning consumers to challenge unsustainable practices.

Sustainability is not nationalism. It is science. It is ethics. It is systems change.

Examples: The Spectrum of ‘Local’ in India

Let us look at three very different real-world scenarios from the Indian market:

  1. The Artisanal Streetwear Label

A “sustainable streetwear” brand based in Mumbai produces limited-edition drops with handblock prints from Jaipur. 

AspectObservations / Red Flags
MaterialsUses imported Supima cotton blanks often from the US. High-carbon footprint..
Craft IntegrationBlock prints sourced from Jaipur artisans but no details on their wages, work conditions or actual involvement in the design process. Is this collaboration or tokenism?
Dyeing & PrintingReactive synthetic dyes are used which are water-intensive and chemically harsh. No info on wastewater treatment or water reuse.
Garment ProductionNo clarity on who stitches the garments or under what conditions. Most streetwear brands, unfortunately, outsource finishing to sweatshops.
Business ModelHypes exclusivity and drops culture but also dumps unsold stock with aggressive discounts (Black Friday, Diwali sales). Encourages impulsive consumption.
PackagingPlastic courier bags. No compostable packaging. No garment bags or reusability component.
CircularityNo repair, return, resale or take-back advice or program. Garments are trend-based and not intended for long-term wear.
CommunicationHeavy emphasis on edgy visuals and craft narratives. Lots of talk on “handmade” but no actual sustainability claims verified, certified or quantified.
Design PhilosophyCultural motifs often lifted out of context and slapped onto Western silhouettes (like oversized hoodies). Aesthetic > authenticity.
InfluenceGlorifies drop culture, “fast exclusivity,” and FOMO-based buying. Sets a confusing precedent for young designers who believe surface craft = sustainable fashion.
LongevityStreetwear by design is ephemeral. No content or support around garment care, styling longevity or cultural preservation.
Ethical FootprintDespite “collaborating” with artisans, the business model promotes exploitation through scale, discounts and mass-market aspirations.

An edgy, limited-edition streetwear brand blending block prints with hoodies. Visually rooted in craft, but systemically detached from sustainability.

2. The Recycled Denim Studio in Haryana

A Panipat-based brand collects post-consumer jeans, shreds and respins the yarn and creates capsule collections of jackets and bags:

AspectObservations / Highlights
Raw Material SourcingCollects post-consumer denim (not just factory deadstock). True textile recovery, not greenwashed upcycling.
ProcessingShreds old jeans, re-spins into yarn. This mechanical recycling uses less water and energy compared to virgin denim production.
Water UseDyeing (if any) is minimal and low-impact. Water usage across the supply chain is actively monitored and reduced.
Energy UseFactory is solar-powered — a rare and commendable infrastructure commitment.
Local EmploymentWorks with local tailors and finishers in Panipat. Likely leverages existing textile waste ecosystem, supporting livelihoods.
CircularityEmbeds circularity into the design process — from raw material sourcing to end product recyclability.
Design LanguageAesthetic is modern, minimal and functional — no overt cultural referencing but that doesn’t make it less Indian. It is innovation rooted in resourcefulness.
Scale & ReplicabilityOperates within a regional textile recycling hub (Panipat) — making this model both scalable and replicable across other zones.
Waste ManagementPart of a zero-waste ecosystem. Likely participates in or benefits from closed-loop systems already existing in Panipat.
CommunicationQuiet, fact-based storytelling. Less about branding as “eco” and more about proving it through process. The humility is refreshing.
Post-Purchase LongevityGarments and bags are durable, often gender-neutral and designed for heavy use. No gimmicks.
Influence & Industry ImpactSets an example for true circularity in Indian fashion. Educates, supplies and inspires — without even trying to be aspirational.

A circularity-first, system-led model that proves real sustainability is often invisible — and incredibly intentional.

3. The Boutique ‘Conscious’ Brand in Delhi

Made-to-order linen dresses. Local fabrics. Local tailors. Sounds perfect, right? But…

AspectObservations / Red Flags
ProductionClaims “made in-house” but no disclosure of working conditions, wages or benefits. Is it fair trade or just in-house control?
Fabric Origin“Local” linen — but is it truly Indian-grown? Is it certified organic? Most Indian linen is imported. This needs clarification.
Dyeing ProcessNo info on dye sourcing, chemical usage or wastewater treatment. Even small brands have a responsibility here.
Waste & OffcutsNo mention of what happens to fabric offcuts or production waste. Are they reused, donated or discarded?
PackagingZero visibility on how products are shipped. Plastic wrap, bubble wrap or reused sari scraps?
Post-Purchase JourneyNo take-back program. No advice on care, longevity or responsible disposal. Does the brand even want the garment to last?
Retail EnvironmentUses plastic hangers — a simple yet telling choice. It suggests convenience over principle.
Design PhilosophyDresses all look similar to Pinterest trends. Where is the contextual originality?
CommunicationWebsite and social media filled with aesthetic, filtered visuals but no hard information. No transparency tab. No blog. No traceability. No certificates.
Business ModelMade-to-order — which is good — but is the idea to avoid holding inventory costs, or for sustainability? Action with Intent matters and reflects in other areas. 
ScalabilityExpansion into new cities but is the brand assessing environmental impact or just chasing numbers?
Mindset“We are small, so we don’t need all that” is the hidden attitude. But scale doesn’t define responsibility — impact does.

Many boutique brands benefit from the visual language of sustainability — earthy tones, linen textures, craftsy backdrops — without actually embodying the responsibility it demands. A soft aesthetic doesn’t guarantee a clean conscience.

Intent doesn’t equal impact.

Cultural Capital vs Climate Action: A Tough Conversation

India’s artisan economy is rich in history, identity, and skill. And yes, preserving it is essential. But when heritage becomes a marketing strategy rather than a system of shared value, we enter dangerous territory.

Many brands today build their sustainability identity around artisan stories, handloom references and “slow made” aesthetics. But not all of them back that up with fair systems, climate responsibility or transparency.

Here’s where the tension lies:

  • Romanticism vs Reality:
    The image of a tribal woman stitching in the sun is heartwarming. But if she’s earning almost nothing per motif with no guaranteed work and no employment rights, is that truly ethical fashion?
  • Visibility vs Value:
    Featuring artisans in your Instagram campaign doesn’t equal empowerment. Value must flow back to the maker, not just upward to the brand.
  • Cultural Aesthetics ≠ Climate Action:
    A handmade or traditional look does not guarantee low carbon impact. If natural dyes are not treated before disposal, or if fabrics are transported thousands of kilometres for finishing, the footprint remains high.
  • Opaque Supply Chains:
    Many “conscious” brands work through NGOs or cooperatives which subcontract to artisans with little oversight. Wages, conditions and output often go untracked.

The Role of the Conscious Indian Consumer

India’s sustainable fashion movement isn’t just being shaped by brands, it is being driven by buyers. Particularly in cities like Bangalore, Pune, Chennai, Cochin, Coimbatore, Mumbai and parts of Northeast India, a new generation of Gen Z and millennial consumers are demanding more from their wardrobes.

They want fashion that is:

  • Eco-friendly — made with low-impact or recycled materials
  • Culture-connected — rooted in local identity not global mimicry
  • Ethically made — with fair wages, safe working conditions and visible impact
  • Design-forward — expressive, aspirational and aligned with global aesthetics

But they are also navigating a fog of half-truths and greenwashing, where every label claims to be “conscious,” “slow” or “eco-friendly” — without proof.

What This Consumer Needs Is Not More Hype — But More Honesty.

For many of these young buyers, price is not the barrier. Confusion is.
They want to buy better — but they’re often unsure which brand to trust. This makes education, transparent storytelling and deeper media literacy critical tools in shaping the future of Indian fashion.

Here’s what matters more than ever:

Consumer ExpectationsBrand Responsibility
Show me where it was made.Share supply chain stories — not just campaign visuals.
Tell me who made it.Credit artisans and craftsmen. 
Prove it is sustainable.Share metrics, not moods. Avoid vague claims.
Don’t talk down to me.Make sustainability content relatable, not preachy.
Give me choices, not guilt.Offer better design and value, not just virtue-signaling.

Design Still Matters. So Does Desire.

For the new Indian shopper, being ethical does not mean sacrificing style.
They want dopamine dressing without climate depression.
They are asking for beautiful, bold, culturally aware fashion that doesn’t harm the planet or its people.

The brands that will win this generation’s loyalty are the ones that:

  • Think in systems, not seasons
  • Design for longevity, not launch
  • Communicate with clarity, not cleverness

Beyond the Hashtags: Questions That Matter

As creators, strategists, and storytellers, we have a responsibility to equip consumers, not just entice them. A strong label should welcome scrutiny, not fear it.

If you are a conscious buyer (or a brand claiming to serve one), start with these questions:

What does “local” really mean here?

Is it about proximity, cultural relevance or convenience? Was “local” just the last step in a global supply chain?

Can I trace the full journey of this garment?

From fibre to final stitch. Who handled it, how was it treated and what was its environmental toll?

Where’s the evidence of process?

Does the brand show or explain how it dyes, packages and handles waste? Or is it relying on generic sustainability language?

Is this label scalable without losing its soul?

Would increased demand dilute ethics? Or has the brand built systems to grow without compromising sustainability?

Rewriting the Narrative of Sustainability in India

We don’t need more fashion brands that simply say “Made in India” and expect applause.
We need brands that are made with intention — engineered to stay within planetary boundaries, designed to preserve dignity and committed to more than just aesthetic storytelling.

Sustainability isn’t a look. It isn’t a logo.
It is not a price tag or a one-off collection.
It is a system. A practice. A daily negotiation between ideals and impact.
It is not a label you wear — it is a legacy you prove.
Day after day. Product after product.

Yes, local can be sustainable.
But only when it’s also:

  • Ethical in its labour and partnerships
  • Ecological in its sourcing and systems
  • Honest in its claims and communication

As a new wave of Indian consumers, creators and collaborators rise, the challenge is no longer making local fashion look cool — the challenge is making it truthful, accountable and future-fit.

Because the next era of Indian fashion won’t be built on trends.
It will be built on trust.

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